Notes from Stella's Kitchen

(Originally published in June 2003)

Pâté can probably best be described as a rich, but more elegant version of meatloaf. The ingredients are however usually of a richer nature and are dressed more elegantly than the basic meatloaf.

The ingredients may include ground meat such veal, pork, liver, ham, game or poultry. In most cases, these ingredients are often marinated in a wine or brandy and rich cream, eggs, butter, fats, and nuts are added to enhance both the flavor and texture of the pate. The ingredients may be chopped in order to give the pâté a decorative touch when they are sliced and served or finely ground to provide for a smooth paste consistency.

The pâté may be presented in a pastry covering (pâté en croute), covered with an aspic, or baked or chilled in a terrine that can then be sliced for serving. In addition, it can be prepared as a simple paste that is used as a spread or for dipping. This last is the method I prefer since it provides the most flexibility in preparation and serving.

Perhaps the most famous pâté is pâté de foie gras that is produced by the French and is made of goose livers marinated in cognac and flavored with truffles. The primary ingredient here of course is goose liver. The livers are special since the goose has been force fed until the liver becomes quite large, sometimes as much as quarter of the weight of the goose. Since American law forbids this practice of force feeding geese, you will find that chicken livers are a very acceptable substitute for making a good pâté.

You can either purchase a bulk quantity of liver from the grocery store or you can save the livers from several chickens and freeze them until you are ready to use them. The liver should be of a nice dark pinkish color without any odor. Rinse them and remove any connecting tissue or fat and drain them well. Sauté some onions in butter until they are translucent and add the liver, some nutmeg, cinnamon, salt and pepper and brandy to the mixture and cook until the liver becomes firm to the touch. The interior should retain a nice pink color. Puree the mixture in a blender until smooth. Pour into an oiled pan or terrine and chill until set. It takes several hours to set and overnight is best.

Instead of butter, you can use rendered chicken fat for the process. It give the pâté a wonderful flavor and is easy to do. I save chicken fat from the chicken I buy and freeze until I am ready to make pate. I then render the fat and use it instead of the butter.

Pâté makes a wonderful party hors d’oeuvre, an afternoon snack, and a nice and easy breakfast treat. Serve with toasted rounds of French bread and you are all set.

Bon Appetit!